Wednesday, July 27, 2011

July 27 - Voyageur National Park Summary

Sitting just to the west of Boundary Waters canoe area, and southwest of Quetico Provincial Park in Canada, Voyageurs makes up the third of the triple crown of Boundary Lands interconnected waterways in Northern Minnesota.  Voyageurs is unique in that it hosts some massive lakes each with archipelagos of islands giving it a very coastal waterway feel.  On some of the lakes, the wind fetch can be up to 15 miles, so the water can be easily frothed into a caldron of confused seas.  Like the other two parks, there are seemingly endless miles of shore marshes and quiet coves.  Each island has it's own personality from stately and mature to cast-away and still being formed.  Here the Canadian granite shield comes to a abrupt end, and along this geological fissure 1,000's of miles long the deep and fertile waters have filled in the voids.  People here have a legacy of "resource extraction" dating back to the  french trappers and explorers who first raided this area for furs to satisfy a passing fad in Europe of fur hats.  Now, most of the furs, both worn and living are few and far between.  The National Park Service has created a constellation of primative campsites throughout the park, each sited so it sees no other, and very often only a single campsite has been established in any given cove, bay, island, or point.  Even with that, the campsites are spaced at reasonable intervals so one can reach from one to another within a day's paddle.  If no "developed" campsite is available, human powered boaters  are free to camp wherever they like as long as they follow good "leave no trace" camping, and stay away from any established campsites.

The really special aspect of Voyaguers from my experience is the number of loons.  Every day we saw loons in every bay we explored, and each morning and evening we grew to count on a brief serenade by one or more loons singing to one another in their haunting, echoing refrains.  After herring so many loons in such a short period, I know now that the loons calls all seem to be somewhat familiar.  Family groups use the same sets of calls and responses, where as different family groups use slight variations on this theme.  They always seem to seek out places where their calls will reverberate on the surrounding terrain, amplifying their effect and adding additional voices to the call even if there is a single animal calling.  Be sure to play the accompanying video once i get it posted to hear two such loons across from our campsite one night.  The echo in the video, is actually a distantly different bird about 1/4 mile away.  

Another enjoyable experience was making regular sightings of bald eagles.  The fishing is good in these lakes, and the eagle's size and number attests to this fact.  Again, every day we could count on at least one eagle sighting, if not more.  On approaching Lost lake one evening we encountered a pair of eagles working on a huge fish they had acquired on a rock shelve just above the water level.  We floated by and watched for quiet some time from very close quarters.

On our last day, while departing the park, we got a fleeting glance of a timber wolf as it bounded across an open field at the edge of the forest.  Our local shuttle driver Daryl, who drove us back to our car (which was parked at Kabetogama Lake with a freshly changed flat tire) after finishing our journey at Crane Lake told us he sees far more wolf than moose these days, as the wolfs seem to keep the moose population down.  

We were very lucky with the wind and got to paddle most of our traveling days with a tail wind.  We experimented one afternoon with the kayak sail, but opted not to fly it while underway due to either the impending thunderstorms (we had collapsed the mast to reduce to potential of being struck), or the high winds.  

From 2011 Summer Trip

From 2011 Summer Trip

July 27 - Shores of Lake Superior

Driving south from the northern Minnesota Pennisula, we pass through Duluth, the largest town we've seen since leaving Reno, and are amazed by the towering elevators and wharf side cranes that stand along the shores of the port area. The main north-south bridge crosses high above the port mouth so drivers get a good view of the whole operation.  It's amazing to see these ocean going freighters, moored along long wharfs, here in the heartland of the continent.  Once full, this American grain, or corn, or beef, or coal will find it's way to the Atlantic Ocean and distant lands by way of the Great Lakes and the Saint Lawrence river.  I know in principal this is possible, but after driving for so long from a coast, and knowing I have equally far to go to reach the Atlantic, the impact of these Great Lakes on our economy now bcomes even more clear as they reach so far deep into our heartland.

The humidity climbs as we now drive west though Wisconsin, and we seek some releif at a small City Park on the shores of Lake Superior near the town of Washburn.  It as just poured here and the houses all sport deep, lush looking lawns as does the campground. I am more used to dirt and forest in a campground, so being surrounded by playing field like grass in a widely spaced forest of mature trees is a pleasant surprise.  Where we are camped the shore of the lake faces east, so we are looking forward to a super sunrise, as the milky sticky sky of this evening swallowed the pale light at day's end with not so much as a hiccup.    

From 2011 Summer Trip

Monday, July 25, 2011

July 25th - Site S5 on Sand Point Lake, Minnesota

Crossing east along the island studded southern shoreline of Namikan Lake in Northern Minnesota, the 15-20 knot tail wind is outing us along nicely.  A sloppy sea has stirred up and breaking waves crash over the stern and port side of our delicate craft as we surf down, then crash into the next wave ahead.  Even with strong effort on the rudder we are often pushed one way, then the nest as quartering waves shove the stern of the boat about.  The boat creaks ad flexes like an old seafaring craft of yore, however ours of made of a space aged sealed cordura rubberized skin stretched over ribs of lexan and a framework of aircraft grade aluminum alloys.  The boat is made to flex and we can feel the waves ass beneath the keep and the pulsing water overtakes us.  Suddenly - "SNAP" and something does not feel right. I'm thinking in an instant what just parted, thinking of the many frame joints, rivets, an sleeved connections that make up the bones of this kayak, and then as the next wave breaks over the stern it is clear - my starboard rudder control cable has given way and we are rudderless. Pressure on my right peddle does nothing, and peering back briefly I can see the rudder sashaying from side to side of its own free will.

Looking ahead  we converse with difficulty over the howl of the wind formulating a strategy. Just one hindered yards ahead is a small island to our port side angry with breaking waves halting it's apparent motion through the chop.  We make for the right side of the island, hoping to find a sheltering cove in the lee.

Now, hours later we have reached camp and I write this while perched on a 50 foot granite headland facing west over Grassy Bay and a mile of open water and in the teeth of the wind which has not subsided since our earlier fiasco.  I feel like I'm on the prow of a steamship plowing through these borderland waterways. The wind driven water parting to let my rock island pass.  But, even with all this apparent motion, the distant shore becomes no closer.  Our fears of a crowded waterway are unfounded as this place appears almost deserted.  Perhaps the strong wind is keeping people away.  We are the only party we've seen traveling by paddled locomotion.  The rest seem to be day fisherman or house boaters tucked away into quiet coves.  thoughtfully the park service has not sited any small campsites within eye or earshot of the houseboat anchorages.  

Returning to our rudderless ordeal earlier in the day, on the les side of the small island we see a spot between two boulders that looks like we could tuck our nose in and be secure enough to investigate the damage and facilitate repairs.  While Diane stands knee deep in the lapping water I pop my spray skirt and sea sock and reach in for the rudder control cable.  Sure enough, where a button hole end of the cable used to be attached to my control peddles there is nothing but a frayed rough end to the cable heading towards the stern of the craft.  I try to cut off the frayed end to see if I can fit it back into the failed brass crimp, and in the process, jam the plier/cutter over the cable not being able to cut further, or release the vice like grasp on the jammed cable. Hmmm. Fortuitous indeed. I had unwittingly created a solid vice that had firm grapes of the cable end.  I simply finished the repair by wrapping the handles in duct tape so they could not open and release the cable, and clipped the peddle linkage into the new bulky end of the assembly.  Working the peddles back and forth I tested
the repair and found it satisfactory except for the temporary loss of my multi-tool to this critical duty.  We button up the hatches and push back off into the frothy tempest.

Navigation is primarily by hand bearing compass and map using the GPS sparingly to save batteries for the critical  passes that from a distance often appear to be unbroken shoreline.  So far we've made no tactical mistakes, but today as the wind pushes us along at close to 4 knots distances shrink.  Just as I reach for the GPS to confirm a bearing before the next big crossing it gives off it's characteristic low battery chime and powers down.  There will be no changing of batteries out here today in these conditions so I wipe the spray off the compass eye piece while Diane steadies the boat and we set a course to a two mile distant point across the stacking minefield of the deep bay.  The rudder repair holds and in no time we tuck into the lee of the far point and stop for a much deserved stretch at the deserted homesite of some early settler with only the broken foundation and some blooming lillies to show for someone's hard fought effort to tame this exposed point in the northern wilds.

Our course turns here, but the wind holds steady so we call a halt to the day early instead of fighting a powerful headwind and end up at this marvelous perch overlooking Grassy Bay.

From 2011 Summer Trip

From 2011 Summer Trip

From 2011 Summer Trip


From 2011 Summer Trip

Friday, July 22, 2011

July 22 - Namakin Lake - Minnesota

Woke up to to an amazing loon duet above the sound of strong wind in the treetops. Even though the campsite was still, we could tell from the trees on the nearby point, we would be in for a howl out on the big lake.  The wind had clocked 180 degrees and is now coming out of the SE, the direction in which we wish to travel.  No gentle push from the wind today, but we are expecting  strong resistance, like paddling into the defensive line of a high school football team.  Dressing for rain (as the NOAA forecast called for)  we break camp and head out the channel to the main body of Kabetogama Lake.  Using the many small islands as defensive ends, we skirt from one lee to the next, crabbing across the open water segments as best we can not loosing too much ground.  In this way we claw our way upwind. Out in the center of the lake we can see growing whitecaps, with spindrift getting blown off the tops and into the air.  This signals to me the wind has hit at least 20 knots.  Then the rain begins.

We soldier on enjoying the challenge as waves wash over the deck periodically as they pass by spotting a solo Bald Eagle on one point as we bash by on our way uphill.  Navigation is fairly straightforward and I am thankful for not having to pull the GPS out of its protective cover to check our progress.  At a few points we become slightly confused when the island shapes become to inconclusive to get a clear fix with the hand bearing compass. But with just a bit more time, the terrain unfolds and clear landmarks evolve just as we are about to halt to extract the electronics.  By lunchtime we have achieved our goal for the day (that's what an early start will do).  The sky looks like more weather is on the way so we set up quickly after unloading the boat from a rock shelve near the campsite while standing knee deep in the lapping water.  With a skin boat like ours, we really can't beach the boat while it is loaded and always enter and exit the boat while it is still fully afloat - albeit in very shallow water so we can step out easily and stand nearby.  

We are on a rocky point, with medium sized pines spaced widely over the thin soil.  At the edges the thin soil supports blueberry and raspberry plants, but it seems like a dry spring has stunted the development of the fruit - or - a bear has already been here to nibble off the delicacies before we arrive.  One side of the point faces out to Namikan Lake which here is over one mile wide. On the other side is a protected lagoon with a dock for larger boats.  There is fresh bear scat on the rocks and near the tent site, so we will be watchful around our food tonight and will make good use of the metal box the park has provided to secure our victuals.  

The rain has passed, but the grey clouds persist with a 10-15 knot wind.  With many layers on, I sip cup after cup of hot water to rehydrate after this morning's workout, and to extend the calm and peacefulness I feel about the place.  Well fortified, and cozy, I slip out to the protected back dock and take a nap out of the wind using the step as a pillow.  The wind here has many voices with a hiss and a swirl from the canopy and a whoosh during the stronger gusts.  As the wind builds in ferocity, the sound resembles a freight train rumble and as the gusts reach their crescendo, the lapping water on the surrounding rocks adds an new accompaniment.

It is hard to imagine this green wilderness transformed into frozen snowy landscape, but the chart we are using to navigate has an equal number of designations for snowmobilers and skiers as it does for boaters.  I presume it is quieter now, as the wind carries away the motorized boart sounds before they can reach us her on the point.

The network of interlaced waterways reminds me of the Saint Lawrence Seaway near the 1,000 Islands archipelago with the granite outcroppings of the Canadian Shield punctuating the forest  and countless islands with the exception that there is no development here on the islands or the lake's shoreline.  The fishing must be good because of all the other boats we have seen are fishing people, mostly out for the day having risen early to get to these fishing grounds by mid-day, with enough time to return again to their vehicles before dusk.

From 2011 Summer Trip

From 2011 Summer Trip

From 2011 Summer Trip

From 2011 Summer Trip

From 2011 Summer Trip




   

Thursday, July 21, 2011

July 21 - Kabetogama Lake Departure and Eagles at Lost Lake

We awake at daybreak to the lonesome call of a single loon nearby in the small stream that feeds into the lake.  We eat quickly, enjoying the our padded seats in the camper for one last mea before heading out into the woods, then wheel the boat down to the water's edge on our handy dandy folding two-wheeled dolly (we've named Dolly).  We were all prepped last night so this morning launch would go quickly.  As I put finishing touches on the boat stowage, and tie our last few items to the deck, Diane shuttles the camper to the public boat launch at the visitor center nearby where we can leave it parked for free during our voyage.  The campground host has generously offered to give her a ride back when we discussed our plans with him last night so by the time she returns everything is ship shape and we are ready to push off.  Setting off in light winds heading east, the wind is at our backs, and thankfully light, although moving in this direction, the air feels stifling with no apparent motion.    These are strange waters to us and as the dock where we departed from falls quickly away from our stern, the wooded shores ahead and all around seem to take on a certain sameness, and strangeness.  There are really no significant landmarks at least according to our usual sensitivities, and we begin to fine tune our awareness, picking off gentle swells and sweeps of the shoreline, and distant points where the subtle color of the wooded shore is the only hint of a point of land sticking out into the water.  We pick our way carefully along the coast to stay oriented and then island hop keeping close tabs on the chart.  With each passing waypoint identified and confirmed with a compass sighting our confidence grows and concerns of finding a way back are diminished. Our way now is forward, and ultimately 40 miles ahead stitching several big lakes together over the coming week.  

The wind continues to build and pushes us ahead along with our paddle strokes at over 3 knots.  There are a few number buoys on the chart, but they are too far and small from our perch almost at waterline to use to confirm our route, as getting close enough to confirm a number would take us into bigger water and away from our preferred line of travel.  

As we approach our intended campsite tucked away on a protected shore of Lost Lake, down a small channel leading off the main body of Kabetogoma Lake proper, we are greeted by two full grown Bald Eagles - one with a fish in his grasp on a rock shelve just up from the water's edge.  They are both easily 24" tall, standing erect, and we get a good look at them as we float by on the gentle breeze.  Then, just as we round the last point before the place where the camp should be we spy a pair of loons nearby, who linger confidently as we peer at each other.  It seems reluctantly, after sizing us up for appropriate guests to their lost lake, they dive and are gone.  By 1:00 pm we are camped, hammock hung, 8 miles from our put-in on a breezy point overlooking our "private" lake.  No one else will be camping within eyesight or earshot tonight thanks to the thoughtful planning of the National Park Service who established these small group campsites throughout the park.  

We rig the now empty boat for sailing and make two runs across the lake to test out rigging and sail/boat handling characteristics in various wind angles. We practice hoisting and dropping the sail while on the water and secured into our two cockpits sealed with spray skirts, and make note of changes to the rigging which will facilitate this operation more smoothly.  Once back at camp when this was completed, we donned swimsuits and dive in to the comfortable water, first getting refreshed, then to practice deep water recoveries - getting back into the boat away from shore after it has capsized. Pulling the boat out into deep water we are both a bit apprehensive of the techniques we'll use.  In theory, we know what is required, but in practice, with gear on the deck, and bulky life jackets on, we are not sure how smoothly the operation will go.  After a brief discussion of a plan, I stabilize the boat from one side while floating at the waterline and Diane grabs the cockpit combing from the other and with a massive dolphin kick and lunge she is heaved out of the water and face down 1/2 on the deck and still 1/2 in the water.  The boat accommodates this odd payload with finesse, it's buoyancy on the gunwales increasing as they become submerged due to the protected inflated "sponsons" that add tension to the final skin stretch over the aluminum framework of our delicate craft.  With a few more wiggles, her legs are in the cockpit and amazed she looks down on me still in the water and says "your turn!".  Diane stabilizes the boat with a deep brace and I lunge up out of the water and over the opposite side and repeat the beached fish maneuver to  settle into the rear cockpit.  Wow, it worked just like it was supposed to. We try a few more times, refining our approach so when/if this situation should occur in choppy water and high wind, we can repeat it successfully without too much conversation.

From 2011 Summer Trip

From 2011 Summer Trip

From 2011 Summer Trip

July 21 - Northern Minnesota

If someone had been watching us from afar yesterday night, they would have been in stitches.  Once we made camp in a secluded spot behind a casino in northern Minnesota, right around sunset, we were beset upon by a swarm of mosquitos the likes of which neither of us had ever experienced.  We had screens on all the open camper doors and windows, but none the less, these persistent creatures were finding a way inside and filling the thing with swarms.  We doggedly destroyed as many as we could catch, thinking we'd get ahead and be able to relax before bed, but despite how diligent we were, the bugs were finding another way in.  In frustration, we fired up the cab top A/C and closed all the windows in hopes that would staunch the flow, and indeed, either the lower temperature inside, or the lack of screen edges did succeed in stopping the influx.  After another 30 minutes or so, we had killed off the remaining bugs inside but there was no way we would ever be able to sleep with the noisy compressor of the air conditioner spooling up every 10 minutes.  After 30 minutes of indecision, we turned off the noisy contraption, kept the windows sealed tight and fell to a troubled sleep, tormented the loud buzzy of bugs  just outside the windows. As it returned out this night were the worst bugs we were to experience on our entire journey.

Wednesday, July 20, 2011

July 20 - Across North Dakota to Central Minnesota

Departing the badlands this morning, we drive steadily eastward today on the interstate.  As we go, the broken landscape of the badlands is replaced by the massive flat cultivated fields of factory farms. Evidence of the recent floods along the Missouri and it's tributaries are all still around, as the highway is barely above water in several low spots, with the temporary sandbagging still in place.  The waterways we do cross are swollen and have stretched to consume new banks far upslope from their usual courses.   

By the time we reach the mid-point of North Dakota, the land has flattened and I swear you can almost see the curvature of the earth from ground level.  With the transposition eastward, the sky has become hazy and yellowish. Gone are the clear blue skies and clearly defined clouds.  I suspect the increased humidity, and vast farm productive land has contributed to this change in atmospheric conditions. We are hoping as we drive north and closer to the Canadian border, the air will once again clear.

Not too far into Minnesota, we change course, exit the interstate and veer to the northeast aiming for the border with Canada.  Now we are on two lane country roads bordered intimately by cultivated fields of privately waist high corn.  Towards the end of the day the farm density has declined and more of the space has been returned to open prairie.

At this point, due to the Minnesota state budget, all the state parks and campgrounds are closed and seeing as this is not a real popular spot for recreation, the camping spots are few and far between.  In the end, we settled for an RV spot in the back of an Indian Casino - actually a very nice spot on the edge of a creek, facing the woods.  This facility is so out of place here amongst the endless corn fields and open prairie, but surprizingly, the parking lot is jam packed and there is a waiting line at the check in counter for hotel rooms.

July 20 - Theodore Roosevelt National Park in North Dakota

Again yesterday, the temperature hit 100 degrees.  We are prompted to keep driving as at least while moving we can operate the cabin air conditioner.  Across Montana we drove, following the swollen Yellowstone River.  As it moved east, we could see it getting bigger and bigger, even with the draw down for the surrounding farms.  At the wide sweeping curves in the water way, there are still large standing waves, something I would think normally by this time of year would be placid turns in a lazy flow.  What appears now to be mid-stream, are probably submerged and swamped islands holding fast to one or two sturdy cottonwood trees, the rest of the surrounding grasses and willows lost to the raging waters.  

It is easy to be lulled into complacency, and just stare ahead at the two lanes of asphalt ribbon leading off ahead, but as a passenger I have the liberty to see the bigger picture, how the roadway plays only a part of the overall landscape, and how the real dominate feature here is the wide Yellowstone river bottom and flood plain, not the four lane interstate and associated commercial signage clutter which has adopted this relatively wide and flat corridor as its resting place.  A mile off to each side, a variegated escarpment climbs and layers of shattered rock are exposed to the elements. Above the escarpment, the plains roll off in a variety of sized hills, some hundreds of feet over the others.  In the defiles between bumps, eroded stream beds carve narrow sinuous gorges that all lead down to this wide plain of the Yellowstone River.  

No contrails litter the blue sky, but towering thunderheads scuttle by mixed with a high cirrus and a mackerel middle layer of clouds reaching overhead in a continuous dome of sky.  This is truly the Big Sky country,  with no major mountain ranges obscuring the view for what must be hundreds of miles in all directions.  The massive hay cutters and bailers look like toy trucks when seen in the context of these rolling open spaces, with the farmers operating the equipment barely visible, however evident their hand is upon the landscape.  The herds of cattle are growing larger, as is the size of the irrigated fields as the plain begins to iron out its folds and to lay down smoothly as we move east.

By early afternoon yesterday we passed into North Dakota as the badlands seem to rise all around us.  Now the plain is broken again, this time by undulating rolling hills of ancient rock, some hundreds of feet high, some only 10 feet high.  We have left the clarity of the drainage of the Yellowstone and now cross many rivers traveling in confused paths in all directions. On the north sides of these steep defiles stunted juniper cling to the hillsides, where on the south exposed sides only a wild mix of prairie grasses can persist.  These lands are the eroded remains of a lifted and folded ancient seabed and stretch from here in North Dakota all the way down to the parched canyons lands that dominate the eastern Rocky Mountainn foothills in many states to our south.  

We pull into Theodore Roosevelt National Park around 3:00pm and camp by the wide waterway of the Little Missouri River.  Clearly often flooding here has pushed the surviving mature cottonwood trees far from the current river's edge.  We are camped in a copse of mature trees, now shedding their namesake puffy cottonball like pollen bundles to the wind like a light snow flurry.  White tail deer are dining unfettered between us and the river in the swampy high grass that has been recently watered by these spring floods.  One quarter mile away, across the river one of the many badlands hills rise and show us waving fields of tall grasses flowing in the strong wind as if under a clear boundary of water moving first one way, then the next.

In the late afternoon we begin a slow 30 mile scenic drive, which is the most common way people experience this park.  We are hoping to see wildlife and grand landscapes as the sun sets.  The billowing clouds have begun to pile up and rain is clearly visible as heavy sheets in the distance.  It is not long before we come upon a band of wild horses all shaking their heads in a similar fashion we suspect serving to keep flies from their eyes.  They have long bangs that hang over their foreheads and faces which they swish back and forth to keep their eyes clear of the nagging insects.  There are obvious family groupings as the colored markings on mother, yearly, and new colt show them to be part of the same genetic set.  The horses are familiar with slow moving cars so seem unfettered in their pursuit of evening's forage so close to the roadway.  We stop for a while to observe then move on.

After not too much longer we come upon a singular massive male bison. Amazing we think and crane our necks to get a better look.  Pushing onward we then come upon a recling set of similar animals in the shade of a hillside. Then, around the next corner we are overwhelmed, literally, by a herd of bison of all sizes milling about on both sides of the road and right up the middle.  The park guide says there are over 400 animals in the park.  We suspect this is at least 1/3 of the overall herd.  We are stopped because the animals are blocking the road.  The massive males, with shoulder humps as high as six feet and small beaty eyes clearly taking in the surroundings of other animals, cars, and grass opportunities are in control of the movement of the herd.  The large males linger behind the bulk of the herd, urging them forward with low guttural grunts that sound like far away thunder or the grinding of large rocks along the bottom of a river in high flow stage.  In many cases they stay close to one particular female, keeping the other males from getting close.  The calfs linger directly underfoot, sitting often in the slow parade while the yearlings stand off to the side, or follow just behind and are reminded with a showy pawing of the dusty soil or an especially loud snorting vocalization to stand down when they get too close to the dominant males.   The herd has selected to move mostly down the roadway up and over this low pass, so we are gifted with the opportunity to watch the group dynamics of this slow parade for almost an hour. Actually, we have no choice, as other park visitors have arrived behind us and block our retreat, and the dusty, clomping, snorting mob of bison block any movement forward.  We have a grand perch, high in our front seats to see and watch all the action.  The one car in front of us is a small sedan, whose passengers sit well below the eye level of most of the animals.  They are intimidated and are often the focus of the driving animals.  These beasts place themselves directly in front of the most forward car and stand firm while their family group passes thusly guarded in front of the intruders. Only after well clear of the car does the steaming animal begin to slowly move on, often straight forward to begin the stand-off once again a few paces down the road.

Eveventually, the herd gives way as they fan out to wider pasture, and we move ahead into the awaiting arms of a monstrous thunder and lightening storm ravaging the badlands all around us. The national weather service warns us on the crackly radio of quarter sized hail and strong wind gusts - urging people into places of shelter.  We retreat to our sheltered cottonwood campsite on the shores of the Little Misourri river and watch as the heavy rain pelts to windows and skylights.  The front passes quickly, and soon we can open all the windows again and let the evening breezes flow through as dinner preparations get underway.

From 2011 Summer Trip

From 2011 Summer Trip

From 2011 Summer Trip

Monday, July 18, 2011

July 18 - Across Montana to Columbus via Rt. 90

We continue north along the Salmon River until Route 15 hits 43 then we head east and climb over the continental divide from Chief Joseph Pass, into Montana and drop down into "The Big Hole" and the Big Hole River basin.  The big hole is truly big - a huge valley easily 50 miles north to south with visible snow capped peaks at end end.  The Big Hole River flows to the east here and the road follows it in slow easy banked turns.  This route 43 would be a great bike tour destination as there is almost no traffic on the road and the scenery is wide open and glorious.  There are many pull outs for river access but there is almost no shoulder - so if you come by bike, bring a "pass me wide to the left" sign and post it on the back of your bike.  As we break for lunch on the banks of the river, a blackbird whistles it's tune and a lightly loaded fisherman's dory floats by casting for fish.  If the two huge Salmon we saw yesterday pulled from the Salmon river is any guide, the fishing here should be very rewarding.

Shortly after lunch we reach the interstate and leave the river behind.  Now it's peddle to the metal for the rest of the afternoon to make some tracks on I90 across the flatter portion of southern Montana.  Now the grass covered rolling hills sweep off to the horizon - too hilly for irrigated farming, but fenced and gated for the large herds of grazing beasts.  This is the land of the Nez Perz Indians and the Lewis and Clark heritage.  I close my eyes and imagine the bison swarming over these grasslands. That does not last long. Actually my mind is set on a root beer float so I am searching the internet for the nearest A&W. Such is the advantage of the interstate highway's cell coverage these days.   

Big Hole River...
From 2011 Summer Trip

From 2011 Summer Trip

Truck fire near our campsite...luckily not ours.

From 2011 Summer Trip

Sunday, July 17, 2011

July 17 - Alpine Creek and Little Redfish Lake

We take the morning to hike up the Alpine Creek Canyon from the inlet of Alturas Lake.  The wildflowers are all out in bloom, and we want to just keep walking and walking.  The snow capped peaks of the Sawtooth wilderness beckon us onward around each bend and rise in the trail, and the songbirds flitting in and out of the willows along the concealed bank of the babbling stream keep a running soundtrack.  Once more we debate our long term agenda which is keeping us pushing each day, and consider an alternative plan which would permit us a longer stay here in what is actually the very beginning of our journey.  But then, how do we draw the line?  I believe we could spend the whole of summer here in the Sawtooth and not have exhausted the recreational opportunities.  In the end, while snacking at the edge of an alpine meadow, with scree slope above leading to the jagged peaks, and river below, we agree to turn around and head back to the car and be on our way.

We've decided to make a provisioning stop in Stanley and are surprised by the level of activity in this sleepy primarily unpaved berg.  There is a huge arts and crafts show going on, with live music.  It seems to have drawn folks in from all over, many with camping rigs.  Seeing as we have not a single nook to store any additional materials I forgo the fair and settle for the picnic table outside the quaint clapboard style public library where the wi-fi signal is conveniently available for free.   Diane heads off for provisions and the fair, and I work on posting a few articles to the blog and catching up on e-mail.  The town's main road is paved but the other side streets are all dirt or gravel. There is a wholesome bakery serving full meals with a full bulletin board of local events. There is an arts guild building, and of course the library as I already mentioned.  Next time through here I'll definitely plan on a day at the fair(Mountain Mama Festival), with camping nearby. Diane notes the espresso almond fudge ice cream was especilly good.  For planning purposes, consider the 2nd weekend of July for a stop in Stanley.

We push on, following the Salmon river as it flows north on its way to the Columbia.  The road and river share a Valley bottom not always much bigger than the two combined, but in other places it broadens to encompass  a well kept ranch or farm.  Multi-colored rafters and kayakers can be seen bobbing in the current occasionally as we round bends in the road which open up a longer view of the fast moving waterway. Its astoundingly beautiful here and well worth a whole vacation to this one destination.

At dinnertime, we select a small pull-out BLM campsite at Shoup Bridge, ID adjacent to the Salmon River.  The flow is high, and our site, not more than 10 feet from the water's edge is protected by a 3 foot berm.  I presume this entire campground was created at this turn of the river by many spring floods, and at some point the berm was erected to preserve the land so often inundated each spring.  

It's hot, hot, hot. I can't believe it.  The air is hot. The wind is hot. The camper is hot and we are weary from travel.  With the awning out, we recline in the shade and try not to move, as the last bit of sunlight blasts our way. We are hoping with its setting the sun will release us from this infernal oven the day has become.  Who would of thought that at 6,000 feet in the Idaho mountains along the shore of fully flowing mountain river that temperatures would be climbing into the 90's.  We sip cold drinks and play the geography/alphabet game, limiting our answers to cold and frozen places in hope that mind over matter will cool our core.  In the end as day turns to night and darkness settles the temperature drops and we fall asleep with no sheets or blankets listening to the sounds of the rushing river and the crickets.


From 2011 Summer Trip

From 2011 Summer Trip

From 2011 Summer Trip

From 2011 Summer Trip

July 16 - Alturas Lake, Sawtooth National Recreation Area, Idaho

July 16 - Alturas Lake, Sawtooth National Recreation Area, Idaho

Today is a shake-down day, and once breakfast is complete, we pack the boat for a day on the water and wheel it down to the water's edge on our nifty two-wheeled cart. What a great little accessory.  We paced it off at about 130 yards - the length of many shorter backcountry portages - and it was almost no effort at all.  Of course, this was along a campground road.  I imagine on a rooted twisty trail with moss covered rocks navigating the heavy wheeled contraption may be an entirely different story.

We check the wind direction and elect to paddle a clockwise circuit around the shore of the entire lake - probably about 7 miles round trip.  We bring the mast and sail with high hopes of sailing the downwind leg home.  Once away from the campsite, the lake is quiet, and due to the relatively shallow water at this far end of the lake no motorized craft venture this direction.  Occasionally we see a silvery fish jump clear out of the water in it's zealous pursuit of prey, but otherwise, there is no sign of life in the water. The surrounding forest is a symphony of songbirds, none of which I recognize, except for the characteristic rat-tat-tat of the woodpeckers.  Below the sparse canopy formed by the thin lodgepole pines, the forest floor is bright green with grasses and blooming wildflowers. The blue, purple, and yellow splashes of color look especially bright against the lush green.

We stop about half way around for lunch, and tie up to a shallow bank below a small woodland meadow covered in yellow flowers.  There is really no place to bring the boat ashore, so we rig a line from bow and stern to keep the delicate craft off the sticks and roots of the shore. Standing in the cold water to set the lines, my feet cramp, then become numb and now after a few episodes of beaching and launching my body seems to know what to expect from the cold water and shuts my feet off from my nervous system more quickly.  We open up the picnic but are quickly forced back off the shore by bugs who do not seem to venture more than a few feet from the woods. Once back on the water we are bug free.  

For a while we follow a flock of Common Merganser ducks with their fanciful tuft on the back of their head.  The one male with a black head and snow white under plumage was directing the gaggle of females and youngsters this way and that as we floated by, ultimately shepherding them under a big branched snag on the shore where neither our eyes or our boat could follow.  

Once we reached the protected lee of the far end of the lake, we beached on a wide stretch of sand and tried to set up the mast and sail.  Unfortunately, the mast stepping fittings did not line up and we could not properly step the mast to the keel of the boat- despite much scraping of knuckles and pulling of hair. Such a pity as there was a steady breeze blowing down the lake just in the direction of home.  We stowed all the extra gear and headed out into the choppy water, and were quickly happy not to have a sail flying, as the boat, with just our paddles, backs, and hats seemed to have sufficient windage to keep us pulsating along at a steady clip.  As white caps were building on the center of the lake, we ducked in behind a small finger of land, and pulled out right near our launch point.

From 2011 Summer Trip

From 2011 Summer Trip

July 15, 2011 - Alturas Lake, Sawtooth National Recreation Area, Idaho

July 15, 2011 - Alturas Lake, Sawtooth National Recreation Area, Idaho 

As we drive north the impact of the distant mountains begins to be obvious as the runoff water from up hill begin to green the otherwise arid landscape.  At first, just one farm appeared and then another until the whole countryside has been transformed into a sea of green alfalfa and knee high corn.  Active long rows of sprinklers spray hugh fountains into the air that stretch off into the distance leaving behind a waving lushness.  As we drive north the flat plain become rolling hills, then wide valleys as the mountain range grows, then clearing off in the distance we see the glistening snowcapped peaks that give the Sawtooth it's name.  As we approach Hailey, the working farms begin to give way to bolder and brighter ranches with massive timber ranch gates facing the road proudly displaying the family name and brand.  Then all at once we are swooped up into the embrace of a sparkling western town, with fresh paint, cheerful signs and bustling bag carrying foot traffic.  Banners span the roadway announcing the summer festivals and we are tempted to stop for refreshment - however, the mountains beckon, and on a Friday night we are fearful of not getting a site, as most here are first come first serve.  We discover at a brief stop at the ranger station north Ketchum that there is a "Mountain Mama" festival in Stanley just 50 miles up the road this weekend, so the campsites further north will be packed. 

The first big lake we come to is Alturas Lake, about 3 1/2 miles long  and we are ready to stop. The Smokey Bear campsite offers just a few open sites, but the camping places are spaced widely apart and we find a perfect spot, not far from the lake's shore, with widely spaced trees and a open view to the east.

Once fortified with a late lunch we set about to the matter at hand - assembling the kayak.  We had stowed it multiple pieces in many nooks and crannies, so the first step was to gather all the sacks and parts, and loose aluminum struts into a comprehensible pile.  Once that task was accomplished, with diane perched on a camp chair with the instructions, we methodically assembled our wonderful craft.  Almost two hours later, we are suited up, life jackets zipped and ready to wheel the boat to the nearby shore.  At 87 pounds, it is a trifle heavy for us to carry, so we use a wonderful two-wheeled cart (collapsable of course) to support the bulk of the weight. Happily we stroll over to the beach, tip the boat off the cart and paddle away into the pristine mountain water.  

There is a slight breeze coming from the northwest, so we head that direction hoping to get a free ride home on the wind and begin our exploration of the lake's eastern shore. The early evening low angle sun has already formed deep shadows on this side of the lake, but the opposite shore is ablaze with an orange glow.  Up high the snowcapped peaks begin to take on a yellowish reflection. No fish are jumping, but we do come upon a 4 point buck grazing at the lake's edge, barely ruffled by our passage he continues to forage as we float right by so close we can see the fine hairs on his still fuzzy antlers, the woody pointed parts still concealed beneath their protective coat.  He steps up onto to rock to reach a higher branch and proudly displays his full chest and broad shoulders.  By the time I even think of the camera, the moment has passed as we are blown past by the building wind and a fat rain begins to pelt the lake as a front passes overhead. I push hard on the right rudder peddle and we head for camp.


From 2011 Summer Trip

From 2011 Summer Trip

From 2011 Summer Trip

From 2011 Summer Trip

From 2011 Summer Trip

July 14, 2011 - Rye Patch Reservoir, NV to Salmon Falls Creek Reservoir, ID

July 14, 2011 - Rye Patch Reservoir, NV to Salmon Falls Creek Reservoir, ID

We depart from our eastward progress at Wells, right where the Humboldt Range reaches up to tickle Rt. 80, and after lunch in the shade of an acacia tree, at the town high school football field, across from a fleet of patiently waiting school buses sitting out their summer recess, we head north and begin our climb in elevation into Idaho.  Route 93 is a freshly oiled and gravel two laner, so our pace slows from the jangling whine and whistle of the interstate.  Hawks and Kestrels hover nearby, awaiting roadkill perhaps, and the parched Nevada valley gives way to a high desert grassland with growing knuckles of foothills as we parallel the Salmon Falls Creek while it carves a deep gorge to our west in its flow northward.  South of Twin Falls we pull out at Salmon Falls Creek Reservoir, where a large concrete arching dam, long in the tooth and leaking around it's edges holds back the meandering creek forming a long narrow lake which twists south and around a bend away from our site on the lake shore.  Its very quiet here and we feel lucky to have found such a peaceful respite from the roar of the road.  During our evening stroll we watched many killdeer stalking near the water's edge for bugs.  They seemed not to mind us watching and walked boldly through the grasses very close to the trail.

July 13, 2011 - Oakland to Rye Patch Reservoir, NV

July 13, 2011 - Oakland to Rye Patch Reservoir, NV

One last look around the totally empty house, a click of the front door key and we're off.  All the preparations completed, eyes looking eastward we begin our summer's 7,000 mile journey.  We rolled up the entrance ramp to Rt. 13 - our first highway and slammed to a crawl as the traffic was barely moving.  It is not a good omen when your GPS entones "Would you like to switch to pedestrian mode" in it's singsong synthetic voice at the beginning of such a long undertaking.  However, we soldiered on, and as we shrugged off the deep marine layer of soggy air blocking out the sun, so did we shrug off the crowded highway and by the time we reached Concord we were zipping along close to the limit.

Closing up a home of 20 years involved a lot more than simply packing and storing boxes.  With each item we stripped from the walls or the shelves, it's associated memories seemed to hang in the balance.  Turning an item over in my hands memories washed over me, and once again the house was full of children's toys underfoot, or the balmy sea breeze was blowing through my hair on a Caribbean beach.  Each collected item and some point carefully selected or masterfully crafted by it's creator had somehow grown dull and pale, dissolving into the unremarkable fabric that had become my life.  But now, upon reconsideration as we sorted into categories, of bring in camper, bring to Tahoe, store under house, and give away each item seemed to take on a new glow and luster. Those items with no remaining glow seemed destined for the give away pile, but then, sometimes later as I moved things around in a box to more efficiently fill the package it's siren would go off, and I would recall the significance of the moment during which I collected that specimen.  Sometimes that led to  reclassification, and other times, just a warm melancholy feeling.  At times like this I remind myself that I am off on a big adventure and am sure to experience many such special moments in my future. 

Looking around the bare walls and empty shelves last night, Diane and I recalled the first day we arrived in this house long long ago, at the beginning our lives together, wondering what lay before us.  As time went on, we seemed to collect a vast array of shells, rocks, sticks, and photographs, along with  dizzying array of what now seems like disposable technology and toys which at the time were so magic and dear.  The moving out process was like a cleansing, a revival as we pulled up anchor from one spot and set sail for a distant horizon.

Driving together hour after hour, we are really the same people as we were before we starting this packing process, but something is different in our perspective and I relish the excitement of it all.  So tonight, after a day's drive with just one brief stop at Royal Gorge to drop off a few house plants that they agreed to foster for the summer, we are camped just below the dam in a small, quaint campground right on the shores of the Rye Patch River. We watch the almost full moon rise out of the pink dry hills of central Nevada just as the sun is setting behind us.  The swallows skim low and fast along the river's surface to catch the bugs, and a fly fisherman tries his luck from the bank.  Occasionally the smoke from a nearby camp fire wafts by, and I strum chords on the mandolin as Diane quietly whistles accompaniment and reviews maps for tomorrows objectives.

From 2011 Summer Trip


From 2011 Summer Trip

From 2011 Summer Trip

July 3, 2011 Oakland to Donner Summit

July 3, 2011 Oakland to Donner Summit

The camper is packed literally to the gills.  We've emptied our Oakland house in preparation of receiving renters, and all the belongings we'll need for the next 12 month are piled into the truck.  The boxes reach from the floor almost up to our sleeping bunk, with duffles filling the bathroom.  With a bittersweet look over my shoulder I pull out of Grisborne ave and head east  - and as Buzz Lightyear would say "to infinity and beyond".  The holiday crowd has already departed, so we have the highway to ourselves and as we drive past Benicia a large V shaped flock of Snow Geese fly low across the road and honk to us, saying goodbye and safe travels.  I see it as a good omen.  By Auburn one hour later,, the pine scent of the Sierras has started to permeate the vehicle and I feel a euphoric peace, as I leave the burdens and anxiety of our City life behind.  I did not even realize I had this glaze over my awareness until I feel my gaze clarify with the brightening of the mountain air. While traveling, our chores of daily living take on a new pace and enjoyment, and the long list of tasks for house renovation is long forgotten. There are operational chores to take care of as we roam, but their proportion of our waking energy is far reduced from that which we experience at home in Oakland.  

Once in Serene Lakes, we carefully stow all our stuff in one bay of the garage of our new rented house on West Shore Drive, organizing things by how we think the cold concrete floor may effect them over the three month period between now, and when we'll return to actually unpack them into the house above.  The snow piles are still deep between houses, and the phone service has yet to be restored after many of the phone lines were damaged in the early April snow monsoons.  With a far lighter load, we depart, and head to Sugarbowl for one least day of skiing in this remarkable season.

The morning breaks clear, and warm, and the temperature rapidly climbs from the mid-50's to the 70's. A skeleton crew of patrollers gather at our usual meeting time and discuss how we'll prepare the mountain for this last onslaught of skiers before the long overdue summer recess.  With creeks cascading down the middle of some runs, and sink holes opening unexpectently on others, and with some run outs blocked by fallen trees and exposed avalanche debris blocking others, it would be impossible to mark all of the hazards.  Instead, the resort opts to have all skiers sign a waiver before boarding the lift advising them of unmarked hazards and to ski conservatively.    The snow was great, with a ball bearing consistency.  The sun cups were mild on the open slopes, and non-existent on the north facing pitches. The views from the mountaintop were exceptional with newly exposed rock faces present now, where all winter they had been concealed beneath a blanket of snow. As the temperature rose with the sun the snow became sloppier, and by 12:00, the surface was pudding along with the muscles of my legs, unaccustomed to the firm grasp of the rigid boots.  Luckily, this is when the resort shut, and shorts clad patrons, in flip flops carried their equipment back to the lot as a final explosion from some avalanche control ordinance sounded to mark the completion of a ski season that had started at Thanksgiving.    

Friday, July 8, 2011

Chores done - Time to play!!

Making plans.....

From 2011 Summer Trip


Making Lists....

From 2011 Summer Trip


Having fun...

Sunset hike Redwood Regional Park - Mt. Diablo in the distance...

From 2011 Summer Trip


Anchored out in Horseshoe Cove, Marin County, CA
(See location of this posting)

From 2011 Summer Trip


Under the Bay Bridge...

From 2011 Summer Trip



Looking towards San Francisco...

From 2011 Summer Trip


Some action in this video...

Wednesday, July 6, 2011

July 3, 2011 Oakland to Donner Summit

The camper is packed literally to the gills.  We've emptied our Oakland house in preparation of receiving renters, and all the belongings we'll need for the next 12 month are piled into the truck.  The boxes reach from the floor almost up to our sleeping bunk, with duffles filling the bathroom.  With a bittersweet look over my shoulder I pull out of Grisborne ave and head east  - and as Buzz Lightyear would say "to infinity and beyond".  The holiday crowd has already departed, so we have the highway to ourselves and as we drive past Benicia a large V shaped flock of Snow Geese fly low across the road and honk to us, saying goodbye and safe travels.  I see it as a good omen.  By Auburn one hour later,, the pine scent of the Sierras has started to permeate the vehicle and I feel a euphoric peace, as I leave the burdens and anxiety of our City life behind.  I did not even realize I had this glaze over my awareness until I feel my gaze clarify with the brightening of the mountain air. While traveling, our chores of daily living take on a new pace and enjoyment, and the long list of tasks for house renovation is long forgotten. There are operational chores to take care of as we roam, but their proportion of our waking energy is far reduced from that which we experience at home in Oakland.  

Once in Serene Lakes, we carefully stow all our stuff in one bay of the garage of our new rented house on West Shore Drive, organizing things by how we think the cold concrete floor may effect them over the three month period between now, and when we'll return to actually unpack them into the house above.  The snow piles are still deep between houses, and the phone service has yet to be restored after many of the phone lines were damaged in the early April snow monsoons.  With a far lighter load, we depart, and head to Sugarbowl for one least day of skiing in this remarkable season.

The morning breaks clear, and warm, and the temperature rapidly climbs from the mid-50's to the 70's. A skeleton crew of patrollers gather at our usual meeting time and discuss how we'll prepare the mountain for this last onslaught of skiers before the long overdue summer recess.  With creeks cascading down the middle of some runs, and sink holes opening unexpectently on others, and with some run outs blocked by fallen trees and exposed avalanche debris blocking others, it would be impossible to mark all of the hazards.  Instead, the resort opts to have all skiers sign a waiver before boarding the lift advising them of unmarked hazards and to ski conservatively.    The snow was great, with a ball bearing consistency.  The sun cups were mild on the open slopes, and non-existent on the north facing pitches. The views from the mountaintop were exceptional with newly exposed rock faces present now, where all winter they had been concealed beneath a blanket of snow. As the temperature rose with the sun the snow became sloppier, and by 12:00, the surface was pudding along with the muscles of my legs, unaccustomed to the firm grasp of the rigid boots.  Luckily, this is when the resort shut, and shorts clad patrons, in flip flops carried their equipment back to the lot as a final explosion from some avalanche control ordinance sounded to mark the completion of a ski season that had started at Thanksgiving.