Friday, July 22, 2011

July 22 - Namakin Lake - Minnesota

Woke up to to an amazing loon duet above the sound of strong wind in the treetops. Even though the campsite was still, we could tell from the trees on the nearby point, we would be in for a howl out on the big lake.  The wind had clocked 180 degrees and is now coming out of the SE, the direction in which we wish to travel.  No gentle push from the wind today, but we are expecting  strong resistance, like paddling into the defensive line of a high school football team.  Dressing for rain (as the NOAA forecast called for)  we break camp and head out the channel to the main body of Kabetogama Lake.  Using the many small islands as defensive ends, we skirt from one lee to the next, crabbing across the open water segments as best we can not loosing too much ground.  In this way we claw our way upwind. Out in the center of the lake we can see growing whitecaps, with spindrift getting blown off the tops and into the air.  This signals to me the wind has hit at least 20 knots.  Then the rain begins.

We soldier on enjoying the challenge as waves wash over the deck periodically as they pass by spotting a solo Bald Eagle on one point as we bash by on our way uphill.  Navigation is fairly straightforward and I am thankful for not having to pull the GPS out of its protective cover to check our progress.  At a few points we become slightly confused when the island shapes become to inconclusive to get a clear fix with the hand bearing compass. But with just a bit more time, the terrain unfolds and clear landmarks evolve just as we are about to halt to extract the electronics.  By lunchtime we have achieved our goal for the day (that's what an early start will do).  The sky looks like more weather is on the way so we set up quickly after unloading the boat from a rock shelve near the campsite while standing knee deep in the lapping water.  With a skin boat like ours, we really can't beach the boat while it is loaded and always enter and exit the boat while it is still fully afloat - albeit in very shallow water so we can step out easily and stand nearby.  

We are on a rocky point, with medium sized pines spaced widely over the thin soil.  At the edges the thin soil supports blueberry and raspberry plants, but it seems like a dry spring has stunted the development of the fruit - or - a bear has already been here to nibble off the delicacies before we arrive.  One side of the point faces out to Namikan Lake which here is over one mile wide. On the other side is a protected lagoon with a dock for larger boats.  There is fresh bear scat on the rocks and near the tent site, so we will be watchful around our food tonight and will make good use of the metal box the park has provided to secure our victuals.  

The rain has passed, but the grey clouds persist with a 10-15 knot wind.  With many layers on, I sip cup after cup of hot water to rehydrate after this morning's workout, and to extend the calm and peacefulness I feel about the place.  Well fortified, and cozy, I slip out to the protected back dock and take a nap out of the wind using the step as a pillow.  The wind here has many voices with a hiss and a swirl from the canopy and a whoosh during the stronger gusts.  As the wind builds in ferocity, the sound resembles a freight train rumble and as the gusts reach their crescendo, the lapping water on the surrounding rocks adds an new accompaniment.

It is hard to imagine this green wilderness transformed into frozen snowy landscape, but the chart we are using to navigate has an equal number of designations for snowmobilers and skiers as it does for boaters.  I presume it is quieter now, as the wind carries away the motorized boart sounds before they can reach us her on the point.

The network of interlaced waterways reminds me of the Saint Lawrence Seaway near the 1,000 Islands archipelago with the granite outcroppings of the Canadian Shield punctuating the forest  and countless islands with the exception that there is no development here on the islands or the lake's shoreline.  The fishing must be good because of all the other boats we have seen are fishing people, mostly out for the day having risen early to get to these fishing grounds by mid-day, with enough time to return again to their vehicles before dusk.

From 2011 Summer Trip

From 2011 Summer Trip

From 2011 Summer Trip

From 2011 Summer Trip

From 2011 Summer Trip




   

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