5/30/2012
Camped at 10,000 feet just below and well in sight of Wheeler Peak. This campsite is astounding - a forest service gem, with the trees stategically thinned so each terraced site on the upper loop (20, and 22 in particular) have unimpeded views of the summit and adjoining ramparts. We are here early in the season, the aspen trees which surround our campsite have not even leafed out yet, and the only wildflowers are the small, ground hugging variety we saw up high n the scree fields.
There is a small bristlecone forest around this elevation on the slopes nearby, and there is a wonderful, well marked and easy to follow trail from the end of the road through the bristlecones up to the Rock Glacier, directly below the summit cliffs. Backtracking from the toe of the Rock Glacier, there is a looping trail, meandering through high alpine meadows and tangled pines to a series of alpine lakes, barely freed from their winter's embrace of snow and ice. The whole Rock Glacier/Alpine Lakes loop, is under 6 miles and even with many photo stops along the way and a extended lunch break siesta high in the morrain, we were back to the car by 3:00 with a 10:00 am start.
In the parking lot yesterday we met a wandering couple Ric and Ami who live full time in their modest camper now after spending over 10 years living aboard a 40 foot catamaran and sailing up and down through the Carribean until they were forced ashore by the untimely fire that rendered their floating home inhabitable. We immediately hit it off on a litany of similar interests and were introduced to the term PLU - "people like us". Ami is always on the look out for such acquaintances, and her enthusiasm for every topic was contagious. We spent the day hiking, and taking photographs, and talking about adventures, and ended the day with new found friends. Hallelujah!
Today, the day breaks clear and warm, in the mid-50's and we are gearing up to hike from here to the summit of Wheeler peak - 13, 063, that's 3,000 feet up from here. I have no delusions of making it to the summit, but will enjoy the climb as far as we get.
The well graded trail winds up through the scree, and leaves the treeline around 9,500 feet. The views east grow as we climb up the shoulder of this massive pile of apparently loose and broken rock Periodically we pass low row wall shelters someone has constructed to provide a respite from the howling winds which must scour this desolate high ridge with some regularity. Today, we have it easy, with a mild but chilly breeze, that keeps us layered up even though we are working at a rigorous pace. By 11:30, we have reached 12,000 high on a shoulder and can see to the west now, and the vast field of large and powerful windmills that have sprouted outside the town of Ely. We are able to see almost 360 degrees from this ridge and all around and far below we see the vast sandy plains of western Utah and eastern Nevada. Diane, Ric, and Ami opt to relax behind a low stone shelter and have lunch while I push on to the summit, still 1,000 feet above us. Now I can feel the altitude but I step carefully and steadily as the trail becomes steeper, and on more uneven terrain. Thin rivulets of snow still reside at this elevation and I cross snow fields on a few occasions opting for the easier snow veins for upward motion as opposed to the loose rock. alternative. Near the summit, I must traverse a steep snow slope with excessive exposure on the east side, dropping precipitously to the lakes we were hiking at yesterday. I am kicking steps carefully, not stopping to consider consequences, but I am confident,and the snow is stable and just the right consistency to support my endeavor. Heart pounding, but just enough so I can keep moving - step, step, step and then all at once, there is no more up. All aroundI see blue and puffy clouds. I stand up straight expecting to be buffeted by a wind, but it is dead calm. All the way up the ridge there had been a strong wind circulating around every aspect of the upper slopes and now, just on top it is as if I am in the eye of a tornado. No wind at all. Amazing vistas, 60-100 miles in every direction. I peer over the edge and can just make out the colorful specs that must surely be the jackets of my compatriots hunkered down in the rocks far, far below. In an instant it seems I look down to my watch and I have been on the summit 30 minutes. How can that be - I just got here? Not wanting to worry the rest of the team, I started down, happily leaping from one rock to the next, enjoying the steady pull of gravity, instead of its relentless tug from the way up. The path is uneven, and sharp, but my boot soles stick well and I am happy. Not happy to be off the summit, but happy to have reached it, and happy to be happy with all systems operational. Hurray!
I rejoin the others in 30 minutes after jogging down the final snow field and we slowly meander our way back down the remaining 2,000 feet to the car making stops often to wonder at the landscape and our little place in it.
This evening while eating dinner we are surprised by three turkeys which wander into our camp looking for grubs and whatever else is their usual dinner fare. They see us and alter course slightly, then ramble back off into the brush. We see them again the next day, regaining a few more members of their party.
If you go: Although there is water at these campsites, it comes with a warning about high aluminum content, and warns away small children and pregnant women from consuming it. We too will stay away and use the water we already have on board.
The hike to Wheeler peak is 3,000 feet up and 3,000 feet down from the trailhead, but is rarely steep and well worth the effort. Set a good turnaround time and follow your plan. Be prepared for rapid changes in weather.
The rangers provided a great astronomy program at night - this park is one of the darkest places in the continental US and offers great star gazing. They set up a big telescope and showed us astounding views of the moon, and Saturn - it really does have rings and we saw two of the larger moons as well.
There is a large marmot colony living along the Baker Campground road. Look for the marnot crossing signs and then pull out and walk down the road to the rocky fields on the south side of the road - be patient and you may get a good long view of a family group.
Great cave tours of Liehman caves - plan on the 9:00 am tour which is the longest, and wear warm clothes no matter how hot it is outside. The inside of the caves is around 50 degrees.
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| From 2012 Spring trip |
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| From 2012 Spring trip |
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| From 2012 Spring trip |
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| From 2012 Spring trip |
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| From 2012 Spring trip |
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| From 2012 Spring trip |
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| From 2012 Spring trip |
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| From 2012 Spring trip |
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| From 2012 Spring trip |
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| From 2012 Spring trip |
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| From 2012 Spring trip |
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